Atsuko Seta

On Monday we saw a Japanese pianist named Atsuko Seta from Osaka, Japan perform at AUA. She was absolutely amazing. The first half of the performance was all pieces by Chopin. She even played two songs I have been working on (Nocturne in C# minor, and Etude 10-12 Revolutionary), and I really enjoyed hearing her interpretation of the music. She was very fluid and precise in her playing; her dynamics and command of the instrument were extremely inspiring.

The second set consisted of Japanese music. She played shamisen style music from northern Japan written during the aftermath of WWII, which she arranged for piano. She was able to produce a sharp staccato sound out of the piano, emulating the percussive sound of bachi against the strings of the shamisen.

Wat Umong / 3 Kings

My friends from the Bay Area took the train from BKK to Chiang Mai, arriving on Saturday. The air was the worst I have ever seen it; everything was veiled in a dark gray haze, and the vast majority of pedestrians and people on motorcycles were strapped with surgical masks or respirators to filter out the smog.

Haggard, unshaven, and strapped with huge backpacks, they met me in front of Central Kad Suan Kaew; Kyle wearing an old torn and unwashed Dead Kennedys shirt, Teddie limping up the stairs, covered with wounds from swimming through the coral reefs of Koh Tao and burns from jumping through flaming jump ropes on Ko Pha Ngan. It was such a relief to see these familiar faces!

The next day we went to Wat Chedi Luang. We met a young monk from Laos who stays at the temple, and we proceeded to sit down with him and talk about his lifestyle and beliefs. In spite of the occasional difficulties of the language barrier he was very patient, and wanted to do everything he could to explain Buddhist concepts and guiding principles to us.

Later we talked to another monk from Laos studying at the school adjacent Wat Chedi Luang. He was preparing to visit America for the first time in early April, so he was asking us about the culture & pace of life in New York, where he plans on going after conducting an interview with the American Embassy in Chiang Mai.

The first monk told us about a temple in Chiang Mai called Wat Umong, which he described as a “forest temple”. Intrigued, we took a songtaew to this temple.

When we arrived, there was a loud constant noise that sounded like the grinding of a motor. The abrasive sound came and went in waves. I was confused about the source of this noise. Later I learned that it was coming from swarms of insects in the trees that Thais call jakka-jahn. These insects thrive in the hot and dry season. They are large and black, but usually remain unseen, hiding in the leaves and branches of trees. The only traces to be seen are in the vibrations of the leaves. Street vendors fry them and sell them on the streetsides of Bangkok.

Wat Umong is an expansive territory hidden in dense forest. We made our way through the many trees and Buddhist relics to a brick structure with large tunnels on the inside. We came to the entrance and entered the cold darkness. At the end of the tunnels, Buddha images were illuminated with the wavering light of candles. Smoke of incense filled the air.

We continued past an ancient tree with an enormous trunk and roots extending deep into the ground. He walked over a bridge towards a pond, where many people were sitting peacefully on an island and feeding bread to the catfish.

On Sunday we wandered through Chiang Mai walking street. As midnight approached we sat in front of 3 Kings Monument, where Thai kids were break-dancing to Wu-Tang Clan, skateboarding and doing tricks on a rail, and doing tricks on fixed gear bikes.

Air

During this time of year people in the surrounding villages burn their crops (as part of the traditional process of slash and burn agriculture). Unfortunately it is common practice for villagers to scorch all of their trash, leaving bags of plastic and other non-biodegradable waste smoldering on the side of the road, creating terrible fumes.

As a result, the days are hot and the air quality is getting increasingly worse. Combine this with the stench of foul dark fumes constantly belching out of the exhaust pipes of tuk tuks and songtaews, and the conditions more closely resemble Bangkok (the Kingdom's capital city with air arguably worse than our own City of Angels).


Sometimes the air stings your eyes. At some points in the day the air is hazy and the visibility is not clear; sky blue turns to dark gray on the horizon. At night the moon is tinted a dark yellowish orange color from the toxins. Chiang Mai natives explain that the best indicator of the air quality is whether or not you can see the temple Doi Suthep on the mountain to the west.

A British man who has been living here 9 years told me that after a routine check-up at the hospital the doctor asked how much he smokes. He was not expecting this question, because he never smokes cigarettes; still, the impurities of the air have affected his respiratory system as if he has been a chain-smoker for years. Lately I have been feeling the effects too. Any serious aerobic exercise outside leaves you feeling dirty, with burning lungs.

Many people riding motorcycles are wearing surgeon masks or respirators to filter out the pollution, which is more characteristic of Bangkok conditions. I know one man who, after he puts on the racing helmet and respirator, looks like a Storm Trooper as he jumps on his
motorcycle and cruises down Rajadamnern.

On my motorcycle I now wear a combat helmet and an air filter mask like the guitarist in Tokyo noise / grind band Melt Banana.

I am at the midpoint of Term 2 at AUA Chiang Mai. The classes are going very well. I have a police captain (SWAT team instructor) in my first Level 5 class, which keeps me on my toes. He is older than the rest and a little more serious, but I like his character and I'm honored to be his teacher.

Last night I watched an amazing David Lynch film. I love the dark surreal atmosphere he creates. The dreamlike images keep repeating in my mind.

Solitude is a hard-won ally, faithful and patient
-Henry Rollins

Wat Arun, Bangkok

As the boat approached Wat Arun the ancient temple was illuminated with bright lights and there was music emanating from the shore.

The courtyards of Wat Arun were crowded with people. Nam prik and other Thai food was being sold in small kiosks.

Climbing up the steep stairs of the temple as the sun was descending over the city of Bangkok, the Chao Praya river was soaked in deep orange and crimson tones.

Loud music blared and increased in tempo as night fell and energetic Muay Thai fighters sparred outside the temple. The boxers were fast w/ reflexes like lightning. During some of the fights they used weapons like swords, bows, and whips.

During one of the matches a young girl dressed in sky blue was armed with nothing but a metal shield as 4 attackers with weapons approached her.

Screaming with all her force and gritting her teeth, she countered their strikes with speed and agility in a mass attack, overtaking them and rendering them defenseless.

Back in Chiang Mai, I am continuing to work on Chopin's Etude Opus 10-12 in C minor Revolutionary - a fast and powerful piece that is challenging me with syncopation, subtle melodic variations, and new techniques.

Currently listening to: DRAGON STRING ATTACK - God of Shamisen

Rama VIII Bridge

I woke up Sunday morning and walked through the hot and humid Bangkok streets to Saphan Kwai BTS Skytrain station.

I met up with my friend Nay in a park near Rama VIII bridge.  We took a water ferry down the Chao Praya river near Wat Prakeaw, and then crossed the river to get to Wat Arun temple.  

Bangkok

After finishing the most intensive term yet at AUA Chiang Mai, I decided to head down to Bangkok for a short break.

Saturday night I took a 9-hour bus ride from Chiang Mai into Bangkok.  As the last hours of daylight faded and the bus disappeared into the night I drifted out of consciousness listening to the droning sounds of Godspeed You! Black Emperor.

The bus arrived early in the morning, the city sky still pitch black.  Tuk tuk drivers got all up in my face begging to drive my somewhere, anywhere, as I was still struggling to wake up.  Rats skittered across the streets and disappeared into gutters of the trash-strewn streets leading up to Sukhumvit.  

Eventually I stopped near Saphan Khwai and got some sleep.

Lanna villages

I just went on a beautiful bike ride through rice fields and small villages of northern Chiang Mai; expansive rice fields irrigated by the canal running alongside them, lush  agricultural land bordered by the Ping river.  

Central to all the small villages scattered among the fields are bright Buddhist temples.

Brad and I also passed a house with walls made of mud...the owner of this building has gained a reputation in the area for her work with victims of domestic abuse.  The site is a retreat for spiritual healing.

Yesterday I was practicing the last half of Chopin's Nocturne 9 No. 2.  The basic structure and themes carry on throughout the song, but the variations are complex with syncopation and ascending chromatic scales. After that I had ripe pineapples from Chiang Rai.  Amazing, sweet and delicious.

I went to see some free jazz at North Gate jazz club on Moon Muang in the northeast corner of the moat.  The guitarist was spazzing out like he was in the clutch of some trance during his incredible, crazy solos.  

Now I am listening to Blues and Abstract Truth as Peppermint cafe closes and the streets of Chiang Mai fill with merchants of the Sunday market.

Back in Chiang Mai

I feel like I just shifted dimensions...suddenly I am back here on Soi 8 in the old city of Chiang Mai, on the other side of the world.

During most of my conscious time on the 14hr flight from San Francisco to Taipei, Taiwan I read Naomi Klein's "Shock Doctrine" - and then zoned out to some Icelandic tunes.

Trying to get my mind adjusted to this place and time, I woke up around 8AM and went to Sailomjoy for some kaow neo ma-muang, pad thai gai kai dow, and hot cappucino. It felt good sipping my hot cappucino and thinking about my direction for the new year.

I had an amazing time back in California during my brief break in December. Highlights include: -Staying at a house my father designed on Stinson beach (and going for a beautiful hike w/ my family, overlooking the vast expansive ocean and the cityscape of San Francisco emerging from the fresh bay mist, with Mt. Tamalpais towering behind us)-Seeing Elijah, my close friends, cousins and extended family -Kicking it w/ Victor Dods at 99 Bottles and driving around Santa Cruz w/ Z listening to Estradasphere's Quadropus-Cruising around Cannery Row listening to Coltrane's Giant Steps and going kayaking in the Monterey Bay w/ Z, where we saw jellyfish and other forms of marine life in their natural habitat-Riding to the top of Mt. Diablo w/ my family on the first day of the New Year (especially the spectacular view from the top - pure white clouds stretching across the horizon).

Last night Jeab and I went to Wat Prah Sing to light incense and pay respects to the grandmother of Book (an amazing local musician and vocalist who regularly performs for the Thai royal family). Young children were playing percussion and traditional stringed instruments, the music echoing through the old city.

Suvarnabhumi clear

After occupying both major airports in Bangkok for nearly a week, making it impossible for anyone to enter or exit Thailand, the anti-government protestors have finally dispersed.  This is a huge relief to everyone in the country.  The PAD's massive protests resulted in the overthrow of the prime minister and brought an end to the PPP - the political party that has been in power since Thaksin.  Since I have been in Thailand, 2 prime ministers have been overthrown during long months of fierce protest in the capital, and Thaksin - the x-prime minister originally from Chiang Mai who was overthrown by the military in 2006 - is still in exile, and faces serious prison time if he ever re-enters the Kingdom of Thailand.  I'm on my way to Moon Muang Soi 9 right now to grab a cold Singha, but I am just happy that the chaos in Bangkok seems to be coming to some sort of resolution for now...

Loy Krathong Parade, Chiang Mai

Loy Krathong 2551

In November, people in Northern Thailand celebrate Loy Krathong - a festival during the full moon in which people honor the river running through the city.

Explosions echo through the streets as people light colorful fireworks, firecrackers, and cherrybombs from the bridges.

Below, people float colorful krathong rafts with candles and incense down the Ping river.  This tradition is meant to wash away the bad of the past year and welcome good in the future.  

During this three-day festival, hundreds of rice paper lanterns - comb loy - are lit with bright flames and are released floating into the sky, soaring towards the full moon.  

Unit Asia

A high-energy fusion jazz group featuring musicians from Japan, Malaysia, and Bangkok performed an amazing set in Chiang Mai on Saturday, Nov. 8 for the last date of their monthlong Southeast Asia tour.  

Hiroyuki Noritake - drums, Japan - was the backbone of the group; he kept perfect time in a variety of feels, occasionally breaking into solos over solid patterns on the bassdrum and hi-hat.

The sax player from BKK, guitarist, bassist, and pianist all had impressive technicality and great chemistry as musicians.  

Doi Suthep

Mae Hong Son

It was the last day of the AUA term so I decided to travel to Pai, Mae Hong Son and spend some time with my friends from Stockholm, Sweden.

During the van ride up through the lush green winding mountains I listened to the atmospheric sounds of Amina (Iceland) and zoned out.  

I met up with Alexander and his friends at a Thai restaurant in Pai about 3 hours later...we  enjoyed some delicious gai pat met ma muang, tom yam gai, and bia Sing (for Alex: always bia Chang, mak mak)

The Swedes wanted to depart from Pai early to get started on the long treacherous motorcycle ride back to Chiang Mai before dark.  I said goodbye and wished them a safe journey.

I decided to rent a bicycle in Pai and went on a beautiful bike ride through the hills of Mae Hong Son.  I rode for about 16km, up to a quiet temple on the hill, and finally to "WWII Bridge".  The sky was a deep blue, filled with clouds...and fresh mist clung to the mountains.