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I'm listening to Miles Davis Milestones live in Berlin 1964. Lanna Music just closed, and I had some fresh kaow neo and mu ping from the vendor on Soi 8. The vendor's son used to always be in the neighborhood, but he was drafted to become a soldier and he's already gone to a new city.

I feel like I am gradually gaining a better understanding of the wider geography of Chiang Mai. Last week I took a motorbike adventure north on the superhighway up north to Mae Joe Plow. It was sprinkling rain in the morning. I was able to confirm my directions using basic Thai. Then I took a bike ride down Canal Road 121, riding around the lake as the clouds transformed from white to dark gray. Last night I rode across Suthep and went south on canal road and came back up to Sirimankalajarn past midnight.

The traffic can really be a headache sometimes, especially on busy roads like Nimmanhaemin. The traffic flows continuously and nobody slows down or stops to let you in if you are trying to merge into another lane or cross the street. It's extremely dangerous, especially with motorbikes bombing down the street without being aware of their surroundings.

Even if there were more traffic lights I don't think it would really solve the problem, because the red lights here seem to be the equivalent of yellow lights in the States, and even the police officers run them all the time.

On Huay Kaew the songtaews are the cause of most of my stress. The large red trucks belch smog and drive slowly, drifting into and out of lanes and occasionally driving into the middle of the street, stopping abruptly and without warning. Meanwhile motorcycles and the regular flow of traffic swarms around the red cars.

I'm going back to Sirimankalajarn to have a cold Singha and read Bukowski.

(Photos: R. Zoey Setiawan)

View of Doi Suthep - Day and Night

This is the view of Wat Doi Suthep during the day and at night. The view is looking west out from my apartment on Sirimankalajarn.

Today skies were blue and it was warm during the morning. I got some coffee, jumped on my motorbike and cruised over to Lanna Music school. I practiced Rachmaninoff Op. 3 No. 2 through until the end and then took a break. Suddenly gray clouds started closing in and it started pouring rain, out of nowhere.

I went back to practice for another hour, and then rode out of the old city to Nimmanhaemin Soi 17 for my favorite kwoi tio tom yam gai noodle soup at Khun Mor. I had a cold Singha and listened to Miles Davis' Bitches Brew.

Op. 3 No. 2

I'm taking a short break from practicing Rachmaninoff's Op. 3. No. 2 at Lanna Music school. I am about three-quarters through the sheet music (which can be a headache to read, with all the accidentals). I love the contrast in dynamics and the rising tension to massive, crushing chords.

The music is extremely intense. I've been listening to interpretations by a Russian pianist and a Japanese woman pianist. Both have tremendous grace and power.

I'm still putting the finishing touches on Chopin's Nocturne in F Minor. The arpeggios towards the end are the most challenging part.

It's rainy season again, so it's been pouring rain in Chiang Mai. I went to the temple across from AUA to purchase some hot cappacino from my favorite Sunday Walking Street vendor, which warmed me up.

There are traffic jams on Huay Kaew and Nimmanhaemin, because a Buddhist holiday is approaching and many Thais from other provinces are coming to visit the Lanna Kingdom. So riding a motorbike is a headache.

I just finished reading Miles Davis' autiobiography "Miles" for the second time. I deeply admire his conviction, and respect his outlook on life and music, his dedication to constant artistic and creative evolution.

I started a new book by neurologist Oliver Sachs about the correlation between music and mental and psychological processes.

I'm teaching 2 Level 5 classes, 2 Level 8 classes, and a Level 12 class (the most advanced level I've taught yet) at AUA Chiang Mai. The students are very sharp and motivated.

(Photo: R. Zoey Setiawan)