Suvarnabhumi clear

After occupying both major airports in Bangkok for nearly a week, making it impossible for anyone to enter or exit Thailand, the anti-government protestors have finally dispersed.  This is a huge relief to everyone in the country.  The PAD's massive protests resulted in the overthrow of the prime minister and brought an end to the PPP - the political party that has been in power since Thaksin.  Since I have been in Thailand, 2 prime ministers have been overthrown during long months of fierce protest in the capital, and Thaksin - the x-prime minister originally from Chiang Mai who was overthrown by the military in 2006 - is still in exile, and faces serious prison time if he ever re-enters the Kingdom of Thailand.  I'm on my way to Moon Muang Soi 9 right now to grab a cold Singha, but I am just happy that the chaos in Bangkok seems to be coming to some sort of resolution for now...

Loy Krathong Parade, Chiang Mai

Loy Krathong 2551

In November, people in Northern Thailand celebrate Loy Krathong - a festival during the full moon in which people honor the river running through the city.

Explosions echo through the streets as people light colorful fireworks, firecrackers, and cherrybombs from the bridges.

Below, people float colorful krathong rafts with candles and incense down the Ping river.  This tradition is meant to wash away the bad of the past year and welcome good in the future.  

During this three-day festival, hundreds of rice paper lanterns - comb loy - are lit with bright flames and are released floating into the sky, soaring towards the full moon.  

Unit Asia

A high-energy fusion jazz group featuring musicians from Japan, Malaysia, and Bangkok performed an amazing set in Chiang Mai on Saturday, Nov. 8 for the last date of their monthlong Southeast Asia tour.  

Hiroyuki Noritake - drums, Japan - was the backbone of the group; he kept perfect time in a variety of feels, occasionally breaking into solos over solid patterns on the bassdrum and hi-hat.

The sax player from BKK, guitarist, bassist, and pianist all had impressive technicality and great chemistry as musicians.  

Doi Suthep

Mae Hong Son

It was the last day of the AUA term so I decided to travel to Pai, Mae Hong Son and spend some time with my friends from Stockholm, Sweden.

During the van ride up through the lush green winding mountains I listened to the atmospheric sounds of Amina (Iceland) and zoned out.  

I met up with Alexander and his friends at a Thai restaurant in Pai about 3 hours later...we  enjoyed some delicious gai pat met ma muang, tom yam gai, and bia Sing (for Alex: always bia Chang, mak mak)

The Swedes wanted to depart from Pai early to get started on the long treacherous motorcycle ride back to Chiang Mai before dark.  I said goodbye and wished them a safe journey.

I decided to rent a bicycle in Pai and went on a beautiful bike ride through the hills of Mae Hong Son.  I rode for about 16km, up to a quiet temple on the hill, and finally to "WWII Bridge".  The sky was a deep blue, filled with clouds...and fresh mist clung to the mountains.

Nocturne / Dragon Style

9/2551

It was pouring rain today.  I was inside the music school as the rain pounded on the roof, practicing Chopin's Nocturne.  The rain helped me get into the melancholy emotion.

Nocturne in C# minor is really challenging me - but I love the mood and style.  The basslines create a fluid sound in circular motion, steady and legato.  The melody is somber and expressive, in cantabile technique (smooth singing style) with many subtle changes, embellishments and variations.  

The rain cleared up about 2 hours ago.  Now I am listening to "Triumph" by Wu-Tang Clan and getting ready for a Kung-Fu lesson.

I am working on 7 forms and different combinations of punches and kicks.  I am the only American at Kung-Fu now.  Jet - the instructor of Kherliang Healing Arts Center - is Thai, and the students are German, French, and Swiss.  Everyone is completely unique in their personalities, languages, and abilities.  

Jet's a character - for some reason I assumed he was around 25, but it turns out he is just 16 years old.  Still, he has been studying martial arts for 12 years; he says he was a "kung fu baby".  He took over the dojo after his father died and the school was relocated to Chiang Mai.  Jet is also a drummer, so we often talk music and sometimes compare martial arts forms to rhythmic patterns and drum techniques.

Kristof (from France) is very experienced in martial arts.  After 90 minutes of training, when the lesson was technically over, he proceeded to teach Kevin and me some techniques with weapons, which was really exciting...the energy and fluid motion of the movements.  

In Chiang Mai I am focusing on progressing as an individual, expanding my knowledge and discovering new approaches to music and life.

Myanmar

I crossed the border into Myanmar.  The streets were filled with poor mothers and children begging for change.  Uniformed soldiers strapped with machineguns guarded the border.  

In Chiang Mai I bought a publication of reports published by Burmese journalists in exile, describing the brutality and oppression of the military government.  

It was really intense - especially details of the protests of 8/8/88, in which thousands of unarmed pro-democracy protestors were gunned down by the military - solely because of their beliefs and opposition to those in power.  This is very reminiscent of the violent crackdown on protests in Burma led by Buddhist monks last September.

Cobra whiskey, Laos

In Laos coiled cobras, scorpions, and reptiles are preserved in bottles of pungent whiskey.  

Laos

Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Rai.

This Buddhist temple has bright Buddha images in the Lanna (Northern Thai) and Sukothai styles.  

The yellow bands around the ancient tree and stupa indicate that they are considered sacred.  

The shining metallic poles leaning against the tree are changed in a ritual every Songkran festival (Thai New Years)

Golden Triangle

In order to stay in Thailand legally, I had to exit and re-enter the country.  

I took a minivan up to the northernmost region of Thailand - The Golden Triangle - which borders Myanmar (Burma) and Laos.  

I was the only American in the van - the others were Italian, Australian, Malaysian, and Thai.  

We drove through Chiang Rai, a city at the base of the lush green mountains of Northern Thailand.  

We then took a motorboat across the river to a small island of Laos, and then crossed the border to Myanmar.  

Doi Suthep

Doi Sutthep, Chiang Mai

My cousin and I journeyed up the mountain to the west and reached Doi Sutthep - the ancient Buddhist temple overlooking the city of Chiang

 Mai.

Kawila Stadium

Very intense and high-energy fight at Kawila Stadium in Chiang Mai; boxers kicking sharply with legs fully extended and then snapping back while the crowds roar.  

The boxers had vicious reflexes yet graceful dancelike movements in rhythm with the mesmerizing music, the tempo accelerating as the fight progressed.

Most of them looked only about 19 yrs. old and weighed only 44-55 kg - very small and compact but muscular and toned, with extreme capabilities of speed, agility, and precision.  

Wat Lampoeng

For Queen Sirikit's birthday, Pon, Fon and I went to Wat Lampoeng in Chiang Mai.  

We gave gifts of candles and incense to the monks and then watered plants in the garden.  

Lanna Music

One of my favorite places in Chiang Mai is Lanna Music School - straight down the alley of Prapakklao Soi 8.

Across from one of the city's many shining temples, it is a small school where I can practice piano in seclusion for as long as I want.

This is Jeab, my piano instructor.  She is an excellent musician, teacher, and a very inspiring person.  She teaches me not only classical piano technique, but also Thai customs, the tonality of Thai language (including Chiang Mai dialect) and various lessons from her life's experience.  Jeab has definitely become one my best friends in Chiang Mai.  

Now we are working on Valse - a Chopin piece in B minor, with a transition to B major in the middle - focusing on the dynamics and phrasing, producing the best tone out of the acoustic instrument.  

Outside of Chiang Mai, Jeab has played music in Bangkok, Phuket, and Hong Kong.  She has performed music for the Thai royal family, and will play for the Queen in December.  

AUA Chiang Mai

I just started a new job teaching at AUA Chiang Mai - a school with curriculums in both English and Thai.  The Chiang Mai branch is located in the heart of the city, and is very integrated into the community.  

It is a respected, high-quality school.  I am very happy to be working here.  The other teachers are from America, the UK, and Canada...they are bright, interesting, and have been extremely supportive.

The students - mostly Mathayom 4-6 (high school age) - are very motivated and fun to be around.  They have cool nicknames like Dream, Earth, Air,  and Noize.  

Occasionally we have students from Korea and other countries as well.   

Two of the American teachers were previously teaching English in Nagasaki, Japan for two consecutive years through the JET program.  A few of the British teachers have been teaching English at AUA Chiang Mai for almost eight years.

Last week two  main directors from AUA Bangkok branch came up to Chiang Mai to give us a seminar about effective  new teaching approaches.  It was a very inspiring and helpful way to begin this new job.  

I am also giving private lessons on the side at Triple E - a small school right down the street run by a charming Thai man named Mr. Chayaphon.

Here are some pictures of AUA Chiang Mai and its surroundings. 

Chiang Mai "walking street"

Straight down the alleyway of Phrapokklao Soi 8 -- behind the German restaurant I stay at -- the streets are alive with the sights and sounds of the Chiang Mai "walking street" Sunday market.

Across from the  brightly illuminated 3 Kings monument, young saamanen (novice monks) pray at a Buddhist shrine.

In the middle of Phrapokklao a man and woman create a puppet dance production to traditional music.

Smoke and the delicious aromas of street vendors fill the air.  

Street Vendors

Some of the best Thai food in Chiang Mai is cooked fresh on the streetside at the Sunday night market...aroi mak mak...jing jing!